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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 10th, 2023

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  • My partner suspected it like a decade ago, pandemic rolled around, masking got harder. Started with my current therapist, who has ADHD, they worked with me exploring why I thought I may and helped me navigate diagnosis, seeing others lived experiences was big and is why I’m open about it at work and otherwise.

    Had my preliminary consult with my psych and was given an eval that I passed with flying colours. Looking back, I check lots of boxes, I failed a course in uni because I got stressed and binged wow as an outlet, loss of structure hit me hard going from highschool. Courses I wasn’t interested in I had a hard time investing in. My masking at work didn’t do great for my mental health or personal life, food & alcohol were the drugs I used (incidentally vyvanse is used for binge eating disorder as well), hit financial issues from impulse spending. I’ve written about my experience with that in the past, was not a good time in my life (mentally or physically) but I’ve worked through it (with therapy) so it’s a chapter I don’t want to repeat.

    I went through stages of acceptance after my diagnosis, which is totally normal, I’d get frustrated realising how much of my behaviour is linked to my ADHD, either directly or as a coping mechanism. Was annoyed initially I got the diagnosis in my 30s but hey, can’t change the past and I wouldn’t be who I am without my experiences. I’ve still got work to do and maladaptive coping mechanisms to unpack, but hey it’s a journey and diagnosis was absolutely vital, I’m super grateful to my partner for really pushing me towards it, they’re also nd so we help support each other.


  • It’s a right of passage, I switched all my hotends to fixed blocks, accidentally loosened the block once on the older style hotend after torquing correctly and enveloped the thing in petg, it kinda vitrified too or something in the heat, was like glass so no getting that off.

    Generally, blobs off of your hotend, estop it and take a look, that’s a huge tell for a leak.

    Worth keeping a few spares around, at least for stuff like nozzles, blocks, heaters and probes.





  • I bought the LCD when it was really steeply discounted, like nearly $280 CAD before taxes and duties for a new one. I bought my partner an oled one and the screen is strikingly different to me, size makes a difference and it’s a lot more vibrant (+ HDR).

    The LCD is a solid machine and a great value, I like my partner’s screen and battery life but I don’t know if it’s worth spending twice the price. Regardless, both are really easy to service, way more comfortable than the switch is too.




  • Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn’t have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it’s super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.

    I don’t have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections. Part quality will vary wildly depending on sourcing too, vorons are very diy and open as the draw, but there’s just so much variability from sourcing, mods, assembly etc.



  • It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.

    How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.

    And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.

    Edit: read up on your probe, eddy current based? Sounds really interesting, my first point is probably moot, though possible you could be picking up the texture or if you have strong magnets it could affect it (my bed has an array of strong round magnets, seen others that are just a magnetic sheet), the do call that out in their FAQ.


  • I was looking through, generally custom macros are in the config folder, unsure if they’ve implemented it differently, here’s the Raise3D repo I found earlier, klipper has some code in c for the microcontroller stuff AFAIK with klippy in python, I’ve not personally dove into the code, just config and macro stuff largely.

    Actually digging through a bit, there’s some gcodes in /klippy/gcode.py in the above repo I don’t see in the Mainline Klipper equivalent, like M9999, it might be a start, klippy lives on the host machine.



  • Yeah, didn’t think it was an image, just images in gcode are encoded.

    I did find their github with a klipper config, but yeah, unsurprisingly it’s not there. You could see if it has documentation through the klipper console? I’m betting it’s not going to be in your klipper config unfortunately. Definitely leaning toward it being the portion that has the firmware validate the key and then set things up.



  • Prefacing this, I have no idea, can’t find any information either, I’m just speculating for what it’s worth.
    .What’s kinda interesting is someone posted an identical one to the prusa forums like 2 years ago, no responses unfortunately.

    I’m willing to guess it’s data, I’d wondered if it was unique per user but if you both have encountered it… don’t think that’s the case. I’m going to assume it’s sending a blob, vaguely reminds me of image thumbnails in gcode, but those are clear that’s what they are, maybe it’s some executable code that changes printer parameters or how the subsequent gcode is processed by the controller to support the HyperFFF mode.

    Don’t love it personally, but I’m willing to assume they’re doing this way to obfuscate what’s happening because its proprietary rather than anything malicious. I don’t really have the tools or knowledge to really try to examine it further however, hopefully someone with that skillset is interested enough.

    Edit: is this a cloud first printer? Also totally possible it’s just telling the printer to download something remotely to support that HyperFFF mode, again, can’t really tell, could be worth seeing what’s happening network wise.


  • Grid infill is crossing, get a decent blob or buildup and you could have nozzle collision, I personally like gyroid but it is slower.

    Had a similar failure on the mk3s, what does the belt tension test return? Stealth mode may help or be the cause, anecdotally I’ve seen mention of motor temps, the old rambo board running stock firmware they got toasty when printing in the enclosure in the summer, stealth helped me limp it along until I did a board swap and changed to klipper. I don’t know if this is an issue with the mk4 as that’s not using the older Rambo based boards, but something to consider as well, had it happen even after I did the first abs rebuild.

    Edit: too tight can also cause issues, not necessarily skipping but having it trigger the virtual endstop, prusa has an article for troubleshooting layer shifting. Also probably with checking both axis to ensure they’re smooth and consistent across travel, seen an over tight x carriage back cause too much resistance and have false triggers.


  • Assuming heat creep. Pla’s transition temp is like, in the low 50s +/- a few deg c if I recall, it goes wet noodle and can easily cause jams, absolute pain in my ass doing a bunch of pla prints in the summer on my mk3s inside a prusa enclosure, ended up setting the plate to something like 30c, had issues even with the 140mm exhaust fan on to try dropping the chamber temp. I rarely print pla in my voron, it’s basically hot bed set very low and relying on my print surface to keep the print anchored when I do. Not had issues with petg in an enclosure, personally would recommend using an enclosure for all prints anyhow, even pla gives off some nasties as far as I recall.

    I personally prefer abs to either petg or pla for general use, I keep all on hand as there’s not a filament best for all use cases.

    Edit: Assuming you have an enclosure filter. I highly recommend something like the nevermore (use a stealthmax on my voron). I do also keep my printers outside of my home, which I know not everyone can do. If I had them inside, I’d set up something to vent the room outside as well as having enclosure filters, some filaments are worse than others, Nevermore includes citations to a bunch of relevant studies regarding air pollution while printing